In this post about how to propagate ficus elasticat, we will see three simple and effective methods for making Ficus elastica cuttings, from the most classic to the least so.
Propagate ficus elastica by cutting can be applied to multiply the plant and obtain new ones by cutting or “recycling” stems, leaves, and branches from pruning.
All three techniques described in this article are easy to apply. However, one of them (leaf-cutting) is rather unpredictable and does not lead to certain results.
How To Take A Ficus Elastica Cut In Different Ways
Ficus elastica cuttings can be made in three different ways: from a branch or the apex of the stem (classic cutting), a single node, or a leaf.
The first two techniques are the most used and lead to better results, both from the point of view of the rooting percentage and the final vigor of the cutting.
Regardless of the number and size of the cuttings you want to obtain, you need to cut the branch (or stem) of the mother plant along the desired internode by making a 45° cut.
Ficus Elastica: Cutting From A Branch Or Stem
This propagation technique of Ficus elastica cutting consists of cutting a portion of a branch or stem 10–25 cm long.
Remove one or two leaves grown on the lower nodes and root.
If the branch is long enough, it can be cut into two or three parts to obtain more cuttings.
The one that maintains the vegetative apex is called apical cutting and is usually the easiest to root.
The presence of the apical meristem will lead the seedling to continue vertical growth with few ramifications.
Without the vegetative apex, the intermediate cuttings will give life to a new shoot that will grow from one of the remaining nodes, usually the upper ones.
At least one node must be buried (or immersed) to cut to the root.
Suppose the total length of the stem is considerable (20-25cm or more). In that case, it is better to bury two, so the seedling has more stability and a greater rooting surface.
Ficus Elastica: Single-Node Cutting
Ficus elastica can also be propagated by single-node cuttings, i.e., small sections of stem 2-4 centimeters long with a single node and a leaf.
This technique allows you to obtain numerous seedlings from a single branch, although these will take longer to grow and reach the size of a “classic” cutting.
You must leave 1-2cm of branch close to each node after dabbing the cuts with kitchen paper to stop the latex from leaking.
You must place the cuttings in water or soil, cover the node, and leave the leaf outside.
If you have opted for potting soil, ensure it stays wet throughout the rooting phase.
To increase the chances of success and speed up rooting, immediately after cutting the cutting, it is possible to spread some rooting hormone on the lower cut.
Ficus Elastica: Leaf-Cutting
Ficus elastica is one of those plants that can also be propagated from leaves.
To do this, choose a healthy and beautiful turgid leaf and leave the petiole attached. It is precisely from here that future roots will arise.
The procedure for obtaining a leaf cutting is simple but leads to uncertain results.
In some cases, it only takes root; in others, it gives life to a real seedling, while in others, it dies even if the care has been impeccable.
Remove a leaf near the stem or branch with a clean blow and immerse the stalk in water until it is rooted.
In the meantime, ensure it receives light (not direct) and has good environmental humidity.
For the leaf-cutting to give life to a real plant, the meristematic cells present in the node must remain attached to the petiole.
Unfortunately, this does not always happen, so this technique leads to uncertain results.
What Does A Node Look Like In A Plant?
- Generally, a node resembles a small bump or swelling in the stem of a tree.
- A node looks like a joint or swelling in this term.
- A node is where leaves are attached to the stem or branch.
- A node looks like the eyes of a stem.
When Is The Best Time To Take Ficus Elastica Cuttings?
The best time to take cuttings of Ficus elastica is during the spring and the first summer months.
That is when the plant’s growth is active, and you notice the birth of new leaves from the tips of the branches and the stem.
This time is the best because the plant metabolism is fast and reactive during this season. We experience longer days, which makes light more available.
In addition, cutting cuttings when the mother plant’s metabolism is fast leads to faster rooting, and the seedlings will grow sooner.
Ideally, the cuttings should be cut in spring (April–May) so that they can root quickly and have all the good weather to grow and colonize the pot before the arrival of winter.
If you are lucky enough to have a very bright house, it is possible to take cuttings even in autumn or winter.
In this case, both the mother plant (before) and the cuttings (after) will have to be placed in full sun, or it will be necessary to supplement the sunlight with a grow lamp.
How To Propagate Ficus Elastica Cuttings And Guidelines
it is necessary to cut a branch, or a portion of the stem, along the desired internode To obtain a cutting of Ficus elastica
Make a clean and oblique cut (at 45°) near the underlying node or the stem (in case you want to cut a whole branch).
Each Ficus elastica cutting must have at least one node. However, it is usually preferred to take longer cuttings with 4-6 nodes to immediately obtain a larger rooted plant.
Cutting must always be done with sharp, sterilized shears to avoid transmitting infections. I use very sharp scissors or a cutter, depending on the thickness of the branch.
Once the cuttings have been taken, whether a long one or multiple micro cuts, the wounds must be dabbed with kitchen paper to prevent them from losing too much sap.
If desired, the bottom cutting can be treated with rooting hormone to encourage enormous and quick root growth.
Remove the leaves that grow on the portion of the branch you intend to root for long cuttings. Usually, the 1-2 leaves grow on the lowest nodes.
These nodes must then be buried or immersed in water, while the ones above remain exposed to air and light.
The cuttings should be kept in a bright and humid place with stable temperatures above 18–20 °C during the rooting process.
It is crucial to keep it out of direct sunshine and away from sources of hot, dry air. In order to keep the seedling from drying out before it develops new roots,
How To Root A Ficus Cutting
The Ficus elastica cutting can be rooted in water or directly in a pot, using light soil with good water retention.
For those who want to indulge in different substrates, it is also possible to do so in sphagnum moss or perlite, as long as it is possible to keep this medium moist throughout the rooting phase.
Bear in mind that it can take 15-20 days for the first roots to appear and 30-45 days before the seedling has a large root system to start growing again.
The two most common methods are water and soil, each with pros and cons.
How To Root A Ficus Elastica Cutting In Water
According to this method, after cutting the cutting to the desired length, you must place it in water with at least one node immersed and the leaves out.
You can use simple tap water if you carefully let it dechlorinate for about 24 hours to top it up.
Propagation in water is very simple and effective. Still, it is probably popular because it allows us to observe root development.
The downside is that once the cutting is rooted, you must repot it in the soil, causing considerable stress.
To learn how to repot Ficus Elastica click here.
Changing from a water-saturated medium to a drier one risks drying out the roots, especially if they are free of root hairs.
After transferring the cutting to potting soil, ensure you never let it dry out for the first two weeks.
As the roots adapt to the new substrate, gradually reduce the watering of the Ficus until it dries out completely when the plant begins to grow again.
At this point, we also begin to administer fertilizer.
If you want to learn how to water a ficus and get up to date on my results, read now.
Or, if you want to know how to administer this fertilizer to your Ficus, click here to read.
How To Make A Ficus Elastica Cutting In Soil
The procedure for obtaining a Ficus elastica cutting in soil is similar to that in water, except that the node (or nodes) is buried instead of immersed.
Throughout the rooting phase, the substrate must remain wet and then be left to dry more and more as the seedling starts to grow again.
This method’s difficulty lies in understanding when the cutting has been rooted.
If you grow in small pots, it is possible to delicately pot the plant after 30–40 days to observe the root system or shake it gently to see if it is stable and well anchored.
Compared to propagation in water, rooting the cuttings directly in the ground avoids the stress of repotting and, thus, the temporary interruption in growth.
Rooting Hormone
Spreading a little bit of rooting hormone [affpro] on the portion of the branch you want to bury brings various benefits, such as:
- Rapid root growth
- More vigorous root systems
- Better rooting rate (hence more seedlings)
These products based on rhizogenic hormones are found in gel or powder; they are very powerful and should, therefore, be used sparingly.
Conclusion
Now that you know how to propagate ficus elastica, it is important to disinfect your cutting tools and make sure you have at least one node, but four is better.
In addition to the whole thing, I would like to remind you of these few tips.
- Don’t make too large cuttings because the numerous leaves risk dispersing more water than the plant can absorb.
- Keep the humidity high to slow dehydration and give the cutting more time to root.
- If the light is lacking (or you intend to take cuttings out of season), place an LED lamp [affpro] near the plants to promote their growth.
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