Are you wondering how to care for Ficus ginseng bonsai? In this guide, we will talk about its care in every aspect.
I am going to start with the ordinary (such as watering and fertilizing) and arrive at the extraordinary (repotting and pruning).
Including common problems, parasites, and diseases, and how to adapt treatments to two opposite climates, summer and winter.
If you want to learn how to care for Ficus elastica, click here or read now or later.
Let’s get started without wasting any more time.
Description Of Ficus Ginseng
Ficus microcarpa, or Ficus ginseng bonsai, is a prevalent tree between India and China.
It also arrives in Taiwan and the Philippines. We can also see Ficus ginseng bonsai in northern Australia.
In nature, this plant can reach 20–25 meters in height, with long branches equipped with aerial roots that grow down to the ground and often merge with the stem.
At home, the plant remains much smaller and more compact, especially because it is grown like a bonsai in a small pot and pruned regularly.
The Ficus bonsai that we find on the market comes mainly from China and Holland, where roots and bare cuttings (without leaves) are imported and subsequently recultivated and vegetated.
This is possible thanks to the incredible ability of the ficus to retain vitality within the wood and to root and vegetate quickly once planted.
The roots are also large and swollen, giving an immediate bonsai effect as soon as the foliage begins to develop.
How To Care For Ficus Ginseng From Ordinary To Technical Care
Light And Exposure
Ficus ginseng should be placed near a very bright window, possibly exposed to the south, southeast, or southwest, so that it also receives a few hours of direct light per day.
Also, read the best location for a bonsai tree. Read now.
When temperatures are stable above 15–17 °C, we can move it outside so that it benefits from even more light and wind.
When moving the plant outside (usually around April or May), make sure not to place it directly in the sun.
At first, move it to a shaded area of a tree under a porch so it will adapt to Ray’s intensity gradually.
Our aim in doing this is to get a better transition from shade to full sun in 10 to 14 days.
Placing the Ficus ginseng bonsai in the right place makes its care much easier.
It allows us to have all the conditions to keep the plant’s metabolism active and avoid countless problems, which I will tell you about shortly.
Temperature And Humidity
Ficus microcarpa is a tropical plant by origin, which allows this plant to survive in warm and humid environments.
The ideal temperature is 22–28 °C with humidity levels of 60–85%. Since it is a resistant plant, it is able to tolerate lower temperatures.
The minimum temperatures for Ficus ginseng bonsai are 13–15 °C, but I recommend remaining stable above 17°C to prevent the plant from going into “stasis.”.
It is also tolerant from a humidity point of view, adapting very well to rates of 35–40%.
As long as this does not coincide with very high temperatures (>30°C), direct sun, or hot winds,.
Together, these four things risk raising leaf temperature and transpiration too much, resulting in the appearance of brown spots, dry leaves, or loss of foliage.
Read why Ficus is having spotted or dry leaves and what to do.
In this case, the ficus should be moved to the shade, or the environmental humidity should be increased with a good plant humidifier.
As mentioned before, when the nighttime minimum temperatures remain above 15–17 °C, it is best to move the Ficus ginseng bonsai outside.
At this time, the light intensity is greater, and the wind strengthens the foliage and facilitates transpiration.
You will notice that outdoors, the plant’s water demand will be greater, and the soil will dry more quickly.
This is a good thing because it allows for rapid alternation between air and water at the root level.
Watering
Watering the Ficus ginseng bonsai is the first “active” care we must give.
This plant should be watered when the soil is completely dry to allow air to circulate better between the roots and avoid root asphyxiation and rot.
It can be watered both from above and by sub-irrigation; the important thing is to wet the entire lump of earth well.
Diving is also a very effective and comfortable technique for small specimens.
It is wrong to water frequently and with little water because this often causes the soil to remain constantly moist and prevents the healthy development of the root system.
When you water, you have to do it well and then wait until the substrate is nice and dry.
To understand if the substrate is dry, you can insert a wooden stick (like those used for skewers) 5–6 cm deep.
If it is clean when you extract it, it means that the soil is dry, while if particles remain attached, it is still moist.
Alternatively, you can use your finger, although the roots are often so narrow that they do not allow us to penetrate the soil.
The only period in which watering can be brought forward is in midsummer, especially if the Ficus ginseng is outdoors.
In this case, it can be watered when the soil is slightly damp to prevent the plant from running out of water, given the high transpiration and evaporation directly from the substrate.
Regarding the quality of the water, we can use tap water left to rest for 24 hours so that it disperses a good part of the chlorine inside it.
However, it is preferable to water with limestone-free water, such as rain or demineralized water (for example, from the air conditioner).
For an in-depth understanding of how to water your ficus properly, click here to read.
Fertilization
Fertilizing Ficus ginseng is a fundamental step in its care. If done in the right way, it stimulates the rapid and vigorous growth of the plant.
When fertilized, it grows rapidly, especially in spring and summer, and this gives us the possibility of having more branches to choose from during pruning.
We must fertilize the Ficus bonsai every two waterings throughout the growing season.
A complete fertilizer with a high nitrogen concentration is used during the growth period, which ranges from April to September.
We can use a fertilizer for green plants (liquid or soluble) or make our lives easier with a gradual-release fertilizer.
I prefer this last option because it has a stable and balanced release over time.
It also saves me from having to prepare different solutions, which is a big advantage when you have many different plants.
During autumn and winter, fertilization should be reduced at the same time as watering; the ficus grows less and requires less water and nutrients.
I also recommend reducing the fertilizer dosage to half that indicated on the label or administering it at full dosage every four waterings.
For better understanding, I have already covered how to fertilize a ficus tree. Click here to read.
Repotting And Soil
Ficus ginseng should be repotted in spring every 2-3 years in a larger pot so that the roots have more space to grow and a new soft and draining substrate.
In most cases, there is no need to repot the plants in the first year after purchase because the pot is large enough to accommodate them and allow them to grow.
In the month following repotting, I recommend adding a root stimulator to the water to promote the production of a strong root system and reinvigorate the plant.
If you intend to grow the plant as a real bonsai, you must avoid using pots that are too large. The first time you repot, you can reuse the same container after pruning part of the roots.
To do this, you must first free the root system from the old soil. Once the roots have been untangled, prune the longest or most damaged ones, reducing the overall volume by about 1/4.
The choice of soil also differs a little depending on whether you want to grow Ficus ginseng as a traditional plant or a bonsai.
In the first case, I recommend using a simple mix of universal soil and perlite in a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio.
Perlite greatly improves the aeration and drainage of the substrate, which is ideal for Ficus, but putting too much of it in leads to much more frequent watering.
In the second case, in which the ficus is grown as a true bonsai, a substrate composed mainly of inert materials must be used.
For example, you can buy 40% peat, 30% akadama, and 30% pumice, or you can buy a ready-made one.
Pruning And Training
Our purpose in pruning Ficus ginseng is to limit the growth of the foliage and stimulate the production of more vigorous primary and secondary branches.
We can prune Ficus ginseng throughout the year, regardless of the season you are in.
Depending on the size of the plant, training pruning can be done (usually one-off or every year), and trimming can be done to shorten the length of the branches and force them to grow back from below.
Before intervening, I recommend letting the plant grow freely for the first growing season so as to have more branches to choose from when you set it up.
Subsequently, the three or four most vigorous and best-positioned branches are chosen to keep as primary ramifications.
All other branches that grow directly from the stem should be cut at the base.
The main branches of the Ficus bonsai must be trimmed (return pruning) above the third or fourth bud so as to reduce their length and stimulate lignification.
This also stimulates the plant to regrow from the underlying buds so as to create small stages and develop the foliage’s width.
Once established, the plant is left to vegetate and create new branches; those that grow from the stem are removed, and those that emerge from the primary branching are trimmed.
From time to time, the secondary branches are trimmed back to avoid choking the foliage or just to make the bonsai seem better.
To avoid mistakes when pruning. Learn how to prune a Ficus ginseng bonsai. Click here to learn now.
Ficus Ginseng Bonsai: Common Problems
Illnesses
Ficus ginseng is rather resistant to diseases; in many cases, these only affect some leaves without extending to the rest of the plant.
With a little defoliation, it is possible to limit the problem or defeat it completely.
Fungal and bacterial diseases usually spread in humid environments when ventilation is poor or when leaves and soil remain wet for a long time.
These pathogens often enter the organism from the stomata or, as in the case of root rot, from the roots.
Typical symptoms of fungal diseases are yellow dots or spots on the leaves, which, over time, turn brown near the dead tissues.
The most widespread fungus on the leaves is anthracnose, characterized by large concentric brown spots surrounded by a yellow halo.
Bacterial infections also cause yellow spots, but these often have a watery appearance, are wet to the touch, and are smelly.
The most recurrent bacterium is Xanthomonas, which initially affects the lower surface of the leaves, but over time, it expands to the upper blade and causes the leaves to fall.
Whether it is a fungal or bacterial infection, the initial approach does not change.
You need to isolate the plant from the others and place it in a temperate, dry, and ventilated environment.
We must avoid wetting the foliage and try to water only when the plant begins to suffer from a lack of water.
Remove all infected leaves and observe the plant carefully. After that, you should be vigilant to see if it is a fungal or bacterial problem.
If the problem recurs, it is necessary to treat it with a systemic fungicide (in the case of a fungal disease) or with a specific antibiotic if it is caused by a bacterium.
Parasites
Various phytophagous parasites (which feed on sap) common to many indoor plants can affect Ficus ginseng bonsai.
Among these, we find cochineal, aphids, red spider mites (or mites), thrips, and fungus gnats. The two most recurring parasites are:
Cochineal: There are different types, but the most common ones in the home are the cotton cochineal and the shield cochineal.
Adult specimens measure 3–4 mm and are visible to the naked eye. They are often found on the lower blade of the leaf, at the attachment of the petiole, or at the base of the leaf.
The cottony cochineal is distinguishable by its white color, while the shield cochineal has a round, brown, and shiny appearance.
Both species can be fought with two applications of white mineral oil spaced ten days apart.
A natural alternative is neem oil, which is particularly effective when combined with potassium soft soap, both of which are used in organic farming.
If the problem persists, you can repeat the operation or cut it short by using a ready-to-use systemic insecticide.
Mites: The red spider is a parasite invisible to the naked eye that proliferates in hot and dry environments and often affects the ficus when it is under water stress.
An infestation in the initial stage is difficult to recognize given the size of the host, so much so that the problem is often only noticed when symptoms appear.
The mites cause small yellow spots to spread along the leaf; growth is drastically slowed, and the edges of the leaves often curl downward.
In the backlight, it is possible to glimpse small cobwebs.
To combat red spider mites in Ficus ginseng, spray a mixture of white oil and water on the leaves and repeat the operation after 7 days.
If the problem recurs, we can use specific acaricides.
Common Problems
Among the most recurring problems in Ficus bonsai, we find:
- Yellow leaves Read more. (specific article on Ficus benjamina but also applicable in all respects to microcarpa)
- Dry leaves Read more. (Orientation article for recognizing the leaf problems of Ficus elastica, but also valid for other species, including Microcarpa and Lyrata)
- Falling leaves Read more about why Ficus ginseng loses leaves.
These problems can have different meanings and are often attributable to multiple causes.
Too much or too little water is the common cause of diseases and yellowing leaves, followed by a lack of light and a cold.
For better clarification, I have provided a link above, so click on that link to get a better understanding of the individual problems.
Seasonal Care For Ficus Ginseng Bonsai
The care of our Ficus ginseng tree may vary depending on the season we are in. The care in winter and summer is different.
Seasonal factors determine how the plant receives light, rainfall, humidity, propagation, watering, and fertilization.
This I will cover in this section. Stay with me as I explain it individually.
Since seasonal factors are very important, I have written an article that covers the best location for bonsai trees. This is also applicable to all plants.
If you want this wonderful knowledge, click here to read.
Bonsai Ficus Ginseng Care In Summer
During the summer, the Ficus ginseng bonsai grows very quickly and, therefore, requires more active care, both from the point of view of watering, fertilizing, and pruning.
As mentioned before, the plant should be moved outside in the hot months and gradually adapted to full sun (if possible).
High temperatures increase leaf transpiration and water evaporation directly from the soil.
High temperatures Added to the light, these two factors push the plant’s metabolism to the maximum, making it grow fast and strong.
You must adjust the irrigation regime accordingly, watering and fertilizing more often.
It is not advisable to repot the Ficus bonsai from July to mid-August because there is a risk that the stress on the root system will slow down the absorption of water just when the plant needs it most.
If necessary, repotting can be postponed to September or, better yet, to the following spring.
Bring the Ficus ginseng inside. Between the end of summer and the beginning of autumn, when the minimum temperatures approach 15–17 °C, It is necessary to place it in as bright a place as possible.
At this stage, it is pretty common for the Bonsai to lose some leaves due to increasingly poor light and lower temperatures. There is nothing to worry about.
How To Care For A Ficus Bonsai In Winter
During the winter, placing the Ficus ginseng indoors in a very bright environment, possibly near a south-facing window where it receives direct light, is essential.
Minimum temperatures must remain stable above 15–17 °C; the higher, the better, while protecting the plant from cold air currents and drafts is essential.
In addition to positioning, the Ficus bonsai requires little care in winter; reduce watering because the water demand is low.
When the soil is dry, wait another 1-2 days before watering, especially in the cold months; too little water is better than too much.
Continue fertilizing once every two waterings, but use only half the dosage recommended on the fertilizer label.
If you use a slow-release fertilizer, spread half the dose on the soil in October; this will cover the plant’s needs until April.
Repotting from October to February should be postponed until the following spring when the ficus will grow again.
Decanting in the winter period makes little sense because the slowed metabolism of the plant does not allow it to react to the change of pot and begin rooting.
You only risk having extra unused soil, which increases the amount of water retained and, therefore, the risk of stagnation.
How To Care For Ficus Ginseng Bonsai In Summary
As long as it is housed in a warm, light spot shielded from chilly air currents and temperature fluctuations, Ficus ginseng is a relatively low-maintenance plant.
Watering should be done when the soil is dry to keep the roots from decaying.
They cannot be scheduled (e.g., every 7 days) because water consumption changes a lot from month to month or from one house to another.
This ficus must be fertilized regularly throughout the growing season, i.e., from April to September or October, with a complete fertilizer for green plants.
In the rest of the year, fertilization should be reduced at the same time as watering, reducing the fertilizer dosage in half.
To learn how to administer fertilizer to any type of ficus, click here to read.
Repotting the Ficus ginseng bonsai should be done in spring, every 2-3 years, to give the roots more space to grow and replace the soil with new, airy, and draining soil.
Suppose you intend to reuse the same pot. In that case, you will have to prune approximately 1/4 of the root ball without disturbing the primary roots in the centre.
Pruning can be done throughout the year to maintain compact and thick foliage.
Establish the shape you intend to give it to be clear about which branches to keep and which not.
I advise you to let the Ficus bonsai grow for 6–12 months after purchase to have more branches to choose from.
