In Today’s post on Anthurium andraenum care, you learn all the information you need to grow it at home successfully.
From environmental conditions to cultural ones, such as watering, repotting, and fertilization.
This article also contains the basic needs of Anthurium andraenum, including its common diseases and problems.
It will be unfair if this post does not help you resolve them or, better yet, prevent them.
But feel relaxed. I will help you gain a better understanding of how to resolve and prevent potential issues like yellowing leaves, root rot, etc.
Origin Of Anthurium Andraeanum
Anthurium Andraeanum, Also Known As Anturio, Is A Flowering Plant Belonging To The Araceae family.
Thanks to its colorful and brilliant flowers, it is rampant in homes worldwide.
It belongs to the Anthurium genus, which has over 1000 species with a very different appearance.
The distinctive flower of A. andraeanum (in addition to its hardiness) has made it the family’s most famous member.
Hundreds of cultivars are grown in greenhouses to put new colors and increasingly durable and large flowers on the market.
Anthurium Andraeanum Is Native To The Forests Of Central America, especially Colombia, Ecuador, and the Caribbean.
How Anthurium Grows In Nature
Anthurium is an epiphytic plant that grows mainly on tree trunks and lower branches. Mosses or soil are composed primarily of decaying branches and leaves.
The rains are widespread, but their aerial roots often have a chance to dry between one downpour and another.
Anthuriums live in the shade of trees, where they receive direct light here and there, a few moments at a time when the sun’s rays manage to filter through the moving foliage.
A gentle breeze keeps the air moving despite the forest’s hot and muggy conditions.
Understanding how this plant grows in nature can help us better understand their needs in the apartment.
Anthurium Plant Anatomy
Anthurium is a plant with both monopodial and sympodial development.
This means that, in addition to growing vertically along the central stem, it also grows horizontally, giving rise to new lateral tufts.
As these tufts grow, they develop all the organs of an adult plant and can be separated and grow independently.
The organs of Anthurium are:
Flowers
What is mistakenly called “flower” is the whole spadix (the actual flower) and the spathe.
The spadix is the inflorescence of the Anthurium and is characterized by a long panicle-like outgrowth. It can be white, yellow, or colored, depending on the hybrid.
The spathe is a mutated leaf (bract) with a decorative appearance. The most common color is red, which can now be found in many colors.
Stem
The stem of the anthurium starts from the collar and reaches the plant’s apex.
It is covered with dormant buds along its surface, which, if activated, can give life to leaves, floral stems, or new tufts.
Leaves
The leaves of Anthurium andraeanum have a heart shape and an intense or dark green color.
A thick waxy cuticle covers them and has a decorative and elegant appearance, although not as particular and refined as the Anthurium Clarinervium.
Roots
Anthurium has aerial roots that are white, greenish, or pink, depending on the hybrid, and are devoid of root hairs.
Like orchids and many other epiphytic plants, roots comprise a core and a covering.
Water and nutrients are transported through the central core, while the cortex and the thin layer of external velamen aid absorption and reduce dispersion.
Anthurium Andreanum Care; How To Care For Anthurium
Anthurium is one of the world’s favorite houseplants, thanks to its large, vivid flowers, shiny green leaves, and ease of cultivation.
It adapts very well to life indoors, is resistant, and is often very floriferous.
With the proper care and attention, the Anthurium can flower all year round, following a cycle in which each flower lasts about two or three months and is replaced by the next one before it dries.
Homemade blooms are not as abundant as those in greenhouses. Anthurium grown at home rarely has more than three or four flowers at a time.
This is because growers treat these plants with hormones (gibberellins) to induce them to have exceptional blooms.
Now that we understand what we can expect from this plant let’s see more specifically how to care for Anthurium andraeanum at home.
Starting from the “petrol” that drives its metabolism, light.
Light
Light is the primary element for plants, the only energy source available to carry out chlorophyll photosynthesis, grow, and carry out all their metabolic processes.
Each plant has particular needs in terms of light based on its growth rate. This is reflected in where they grow in nature.
Anthurium grows in the shade of trees; it hardly receives direct light except for the few rays that filter through the foliage here and there.
What we need to understand, however, is that the shade of the tropics is much brighter than that found in our home or apartment.
Around the equator, the inclination of the sun’s rays is reduced, and the light is much more intense and regular throughout the year.
To understand better, on a clear day on the equator, 150,000 lux can be recorded, while in Italy, during the summer, it reaches around 100,000.
On a cloudy day, just 10,000. All of this drops dramatically during the winter.
Furthermore, the house is already shady, except for the windows facing south (hit by the direct sun).
Those facing southeast and southwest receive only sun for part of the day, while those facing north are the most shady.
How Much Light Does Anthurium Need?
Between 10,000 and 25,000 lux is a great range of light for anthurium to grow and flower.
The plant’s body works faster when it gets more sunlight, so it grows and blooms more.
It isn’t easy (if you don’t use grow lights) to guarantee this level of light for twelve hours a day, every day, and all year round.
Fortunately, Anthurium is a very adaptable plant that can survive even in less bright environments. They are growing less and making fewer flowers.
For this reason, it grows little during the winter and often does not flower.
Where Can I Keep Anthurium At Home?
At home, Anthurium andraeanum should always be kept in front of a bright window, possibly exposed to the south-east or south-west, where the light is intense and diffused.
Particular attention must be paid to the direct sun, which must not hit the plant’s foliage during the hot hours from March to September (spring and summer).
During autumn and winter, the Anthurium can quickly receive full sun, allowing it to grow and giving us some small flowers.
In these months, you must pay attention to cold air drafts and temperatures, which must not fall below 16°C. Humidity is also a factor to consider; we’ll see it soon.
How Do I Understand If The Light Is Okay?
The Most Precise And Immediate Way To Know If The Anthurium Receives Enough Light Is To Measure solar radiation With A lux meter or a lux meter app on your smartphone.
The first is very precise, while the application will provide us with indicative figures (but it is free).
Another approximate but effective method is to look at the shadow created by placing a hand before the light source.
The goal is for the shadow to be precise but slightly blurry, as in the second image.
If no shade is created, the light is not intense enough, while if it is too sharp, it is too strong and risks making the leaves yellow or burning.
Finally, you can observe the plant, the color of the leaves, and how it behaves.
This method requires patience, but it will help us develop a particular sensitivity towards plants over time.
The leaves become dark when they receive little light and fade when the light is too strong. The ideal color is in the middle when the green is bright and bright.
Take the newly purchased Anthurium as a reference; having just come out of the greenhouse, it should be an example of a healthy plant grown in ideal conditions. Take a photo if necessary.
Temperature
Temperature is a crucial element in cultivating Anthurium, influencing water absorption, metabolism speed, and the stomata opening.
This plant is native to warm climates; it tolerates medium or high temperatures well and does not tolerate cold ones.
Temperature also closely correlates with humidity (which we will see in the next paragraph), defining the amount of water the air can store.
What Temperature Should Anthurium Be At?
The optimal temperature for Anthurium andraeanum is between 20 and 27 °C, which is simple to maintain in the flat.
It will thrive at higher temperatures if adequate humidity and the plant is shielded from the sun.
In hot and dry climates, Anthurium closes its stomata and struggles to absorb water; the leaves tend to sag and bend downward.
Never allow the lowest temperature to drop below 16°C. Dark patches on leaves and flowers may occur in colder climates or during drafts, which increases the possibility of fungal infections.
Furthermore, by slowing down the metabolism, anthurium absorbs less water and increases the likelihood of root rot.
Problems Caused By Heat
At very high temperatures, Anthurium dehydrates and closes the stomata, resulting in:
- Floppy leaves
- Dry leaf edges
- Dried flowers
Problems Caused By The Cold
The more the temperature drops below 16 °C, the more rapid and evident the damage will be.
Initially, anthurium slows down growth and water absorption; subsequently, the following appear:
- Necrotic spots on leaves and flowers
- Fungal problems
- Root rot
- Death of the plant
Too low temperatures and drafts cause cold damage during the winter or by cold surfaces touching the plant. Like a window, for example.
Ambient Humidity
Water particles Retained By The Air represent Environmental Humidity And contribute to Regulating stomatal opening and gaseous exchanges.
This gaseous exchange happens between the Anthurium leaves and the surrounding environment.
As mentioned before, there is a close correlation between humidity and temperature, which is why humidity is called “relative” (U/R).
As the temperature increases, the air can “trap” more water particles inside it.
Consequently, if the temperature rises, the percentage of humidity tends to fall.
At least this happens in a closed environment like the home. This is why the air becomes drier when we turn on the heating in winter.
How Much Humidity Does Anthurium Need?
Because Anthurium is a tropical plant, its ideal growing conditions range from 60 to 80% relative humidity, depending on the temperature.
It may also adjust to a drier climate, but if this is maintained for an extended period of time, the tips of the leaves may dry off.
When the air gets dry, the stomata shut, making it harder for the plant to take in water. As a result, the outermost portions of the plant—the tips of the leaves and flowers—begin to dry up.
Very high humidity levels seldom pose issues for Anthurium plants until they allow the air to become stagnant amid the leaves for an extended period of time, which allows fungus to proliferate.
Where Can I Keep Anthurium At Home?
Since the kitchen and bathroom are typically the most humid areas of the house, this is the ideal location to store anthurium in an apartment.
There are techniques to raise the ambient humidity surrounding your plants if this isn’t feasible.
How Do You Increase Humidity In Your Home?
Several more or less effective methods can help increase your plants’ environmental humidity. As:
- Place a water holder on the radiator when the heating is on.
- Hang the clothes in the room where you keep the plants.
- In order to establish a microclimate between the leaves, bring the plants closer together.
- Early in the morning or in the late afternoons of summer, mist the leaves with water.
- Fill the saucer with a little amount of water and either add pebbles or expanded clay; the water level should not touch the vase.
- Use an ultrasonic humidifier.
If you have many plants, I invite you to consider the last option, which is the most effective.
Substrate
What the anthurium roots grow on is called the substrate. The substrate can be native or inactive matter.
Its functions are to support the plant, rebuild a suitable environment for the root system, and allow nutrient absorption.
The factors that must be taken into account for a suitable substrate are:
Macroporosity: The Quantity Of Medium-Large Spaces Between Particles That Allow Oxygen To Circulate.
Microporosity: The Little Openings In A Substrate That Let Water Fill And Spread Uniformly.
pH: Controls How Much Nutrition Is Absorbed By The Plant. The Anthurium Won’t absorb some Of The Nutrients If The Environment Is Excessively Acidic Or Alkaline.
What Should The Ideal Soil For Anthurium Be Like?
Since we have identified that Anthurium is an epiphytic plant, it must be provided with soft, draining, and airy soil because it is susceptible to water stagnation.
The optimal substrate should comprise 50% solids, with the rest split equally between macropores and micropores.
This way, airy and draining soil is obtained while absorbing and distributing water and nutrients evenly inside the pot.
It may seem strange for the record, but with the proper precautions, you can grow anthurium in water.
What Soil Should I Use For Anthurium Andraeanum?
Substrates like peat, perlite, coconut fiber, orchid bark, sphagnum moss, or coconut chips may create excellent mixtures for Anthurium plants.
A perfect and easy-to-make soil is obtained by mixing:
- 1/2 soil for terrestrial orchids (bark and peat)
- 1/2 medium-small-grain coconut fiber.
If you aspire to be the best, I recommend:
- 1/3 of orchid bark or coconut chips.
- 1/3 blonde peat
- 1/3 coconut fiber
The latter, among other things, is the substrate that the best Dutch growers recommend.
I do not recommend pure universal potting soil, which is too compact and holds much water. Using it inevitably leads to root rot.
Watering
Learning how to handle watering is fundamental if you want to grow Anthurium andraeanum successfully.
This plant needs an appropriate mix of dry and moist conditions to develop healthy and vigorous growth.
Always remember that Andraeanum is an epiphytic plant; its preferred state of being is trees rather than the ground.
If we water too much, we can have problems such as root rot and yellow leaves.
If we do it too little, we will have leaves that become limp.
Although the second hypothesis is less dangerous, the plant will probably recover after a good watering.
It is essential to understand when and how to water the anthurium if you want to see it thrive without problems.
How Often Should Anthurium Be Watered?
Put your finger about 5 to 6 centimeters into the earth to see if it feels dry, damp, or wet. This will help you figure out when to water the Anthurium.
If you want to water your Anthurium, wait until the dirt is dry. In the summer, you can water it when it is a little wet.
Avoid leaving the substrate wet for too long, and use good soil. A pot of the right size can help you with this.
During the winter, it is important not to water early because the risk of water stagnation is high, and the roots could rot. If in doubt, it is better to wait an extra day.
How Do I Water The Anthurium Plant?
Water the Anthurium andraeanum generously from above, letting excess water flow through the soil and draining out the pot’s pores.
This lets you cleanse the substrate a bit each time you water, reducing the possibility of salts or limescale collecting over time.
Water with warm water in the winter and at room temperature during the summer, and let the pot drain well to avoid excess water stagnating in the saucer.
What Water Should Be Used?
Even if tap water varies greatly from place to place, rainwater and demineralized water are better options.
The amount of limestone (calcium carbonate and magnesium) in your town may be appropriate; in this instance, using it is safe.
In the long term, issues with the pH of the soil and salt accumulations will result from hard, high-lime tap water.
A good solution is to dilute tap water with rainwater (or demineralized water) in a 1:1 ratio to bring the hardness back within thresholds acceptable to the plant.
To properly absorb the nutrients, the water with which you water the Anthurium must have a pH between 5.4 and 6.7.
A tiny quantity of fertilizer, which tends to acidify, may be diluted with water to obtain these levels quickly.
Fertilization
Fertilization is known as adding required nutrients to a plant. We do this because there aren’t enough nutrients in tap water for Anthurium to grow.
If you don’t fertilize, the plant will experience nutritional deficits as soon as the soil loses its stored materials.
Lack of nutrition will always cause it to grow slowly and develop various issues.
Fertilizers that dissolve in liquid or slow-release granules may fertilize anthurium.
Since this is a year-round flowering plant, complete fertilizers with high phosphorus and potassium contents are required.
When To Fertilize Anthurium?
The Anthurium plant must be fertilized from March to September, when, thanks to the excellent weather, it grows more quickly and flowers.
You may fertilize in the spring and summer every two waterings or every time you water but use half the manufacturer’s suggested dosage.
The plant’s metabolism is significantly slowed, and its water and fertilizer requirement is decreased from October to February due to the cold temperatures and limited sunshine.
It is essential to cut down on fertilization during these months substantially or to cease it entirely.
How Is Anthurium Fertilized?
To develop and flourish effectively, Anthurium needs a comprehensive NPK fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium concentrations.
The fertilizer must include every micronutrient the plant requires and the macronutrients.
Usually, an excellent soluble fertilizer for flowering plants does its job, possibly integrating magnesium with 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts for every 4 liters of water.
When fertilizing anthuriums, you must use around 10% to 15% more water than the pot’s capacity to prevent salt buildup in the soil.
In this manner, the remnants of the prior fertilization are somewhat washed from the substrate.
Slow-release fertilizer is an excellent alternative to liquid fertilizer.
As a handy substitute for liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer lowers the possibility of overdosing.
Problems Due To Incorrect Fertilization
Insufficient, excessive, or unbalanced fertilization causes delays in the growth of Anthurium, dehydration, flowering problems, and noticeable damage to the leaves.
The symptoms appear differently depending on the elements the plant cannot absorb.
For instance, a lack of nitrogen, sulfur, or iron may cause yellowing leaves and sluggish development.
Necrotic patches on the leaves and an overall weakened immune system in the plant are caused by calcium, potassium, and magnesium deficiencies.
If too much fertilizer has been administered, the acidification of the soil prevents the anthurium from absorbing microelements such as magnesium and calcium (which are absorbed at a neutral pH).
Suppose the accumulation of salts exceeds critical levels. In that case, the plant struggles to absorb water and begins to dry out from the edges of the leaves gradually.
Repotting
Periodically repotting the Anthurium andraeanum allows us to make it grow in a pot of the right size and soil with excellent characteristics.
These two factors are fundamental for having a vigorous root system and help us grow the plant.
The main reasons why you need to change the vase are:
- The plant has grown, and the roots no longer have room to grow.
- The soil has compacted and lost its airiness.
- The root system is rotting.
- You want to propagate the anthurium to get more plants.
Repotting is a true cure-all for the plant if done correctly and at the correct time, as it will result in increased growth and blooming.
When To Repot Anthurium?
When the Anthurium plant outgrows its present container, it should be replanted every two to three years.
The Finest Times Are In The spring or summer when The Anthurium Is At Its Fastest Development And Has The Chance To Spread Its Roots Throughout The Pot.
Changing pots during the winter is useless (and counterproductive) because the plant cannot root appropriately due to poor lighting.
This would lead us to have a pot that is too large compared to the volume of the root system, and it would take too long to dry between one watering and another.
We would only increase the risk of root rot without any benefit.
This does not apply if repotting is done to save an anthurium with root system problems.
Regardless of the season, you must repot the plant and remove the rotten roots if they are present.
How Do I Repot Anthurium?
An anthurium that has outgrown its pot should be repotted using one of the following methods:
- Water the plant to soften the roots.
- Gently remove the anthurium from the pot.
- Add a pot three or four centimeters larger and a few centimeters of soil to the bottom.
- Pot the Anthurium in the center of the new pot and fill the empty spaces with airy, draining soil.
- Make sure the collar does not remain buried.
- Gently press the soil down to stabilize the plant.
- Water thoroughly, making sure all excess water drains from the potholes.
- If the soil has compacted after watering, add a little more.
If the plant has rotten roots, you need to clean the soil well before potting it and remove all the brown and soft roots using sterilized scissors.
A fungus is the source of root rot (usually Pythium in Anthurium), so the plant must be kept under observation for a few weeks after transplanting to ensure the infection does not restart.
In this case, treating it with a systemic fungicide will be advisable.
For a better understanding of how to repot an anthurium, click here to read now. [ link]
What Vase Should I Use?
The Anthurium needs to be placed in a very specific-sized pot. If the pot is too small, the plant won’t have enough room to grow.
It will also require frequent watering; if it is too large, the water may collect for an extended period of time.
Use a pot that is slightly larger than the previous one—no more than 4 to 5 cm—when you repot the anthurium.
To allow water to drain out of the pot and air to circulate through the soil, the bottom of the pot should have several drainage holes.
Flowering
Large, brightly colored flowers continue growing one after the other throughout the year.
This is true in theory but is not always reflected in practice.
Environmental and cultural factors play a crucial role. Anthurium is a continuously growing plant that can develop and flower continually. Still, it is up to us to care for it properly at home.
When Does Anthurium Flower?
If grown properly in the right environmental and cultural conditions, the Anthurium is a very generous plant that can flower twelve months a year. T
The factor that most influences flowering is undoubtedly light, which is why Anthurium often does not flower during the winter in Italy.
As we have reiterated several times in this article, during autumn and (in particular) winter, the intensity of the sun’s rays is significantly reduced.
The days are shortened to just 8–9 hours of light.
Unless you keep the Anthurium in front of a south-facing window (or use artificial lights), it is typical for the plant not to flower in these months.
It will start flowering naturally in the spring if it is healthy.
How Many Flowers Does It Have?
The number of flowers that Anthurium andraeanum can produce depends significantly on the genetics of the hybrid.
There are cultivars selected to produce many flowers (often smaller) and others for the size of the flower.
Generally speaking, large-flowered Anthuriums are less floriferous than medium- or small-flowered ones.
Let’s say they can have 2-4 mature flowers at a time to give an indicative figure. As the new flower grows, the older one fades and withers.
So why is it that when we buy one of these plants, they are chock full of flowers?
Because growers use hormones (gibberellins) to induce them to flower on “command” and in abundance.
When the level of hormones within the anthurium is stabilized, the plant begins to flower again as it would naturally.
How Long Does Flowering Last?
The flowering of Anthurium can last from 8 to 12 months, and each flower can maintain a beautiful appearance for one to three months.
As mentioned before, the environment and care determine the flowering duration.
Common Problems In Flowering
Some problems that can arise during flowering are:
- Anthurium flowers abort before opening. This happens because the plant does not have the strength to continue flowering, usually due to the absence of fertilizer or because it has been moved to a darker or colder room.
- Spotted Flowers: Many problems can stain the Anthurium spathe, such as cold, dry air, fungal or bacterial diseases, parasitic attacks, or burns from direct sun.
- The flowers fade: After a few weeks, after the flower has completely matured, it naturally begins to fade and lose its brilliance. Other causes are due to too much light, very high temperatures, or problems with the absorption of nutrients.
- Green flowers: Some flowers of a newly purchased Anthurium may start to turn green after purchase. This is often due to the hormonal treatment they have received to flower in the greenhouse. If the green flowers were new, there was poor lighting or fertilizer use with a high nitrogen content.
To avoid this flowering issue. I have written an antibody that discusses how to flower Anthurium without falling into matters. Click here to read now. [ link]
Pruning And Maintenance
Like any other houseplant, the anthurium also needs a little cleaning from dry leaves and withered flowers now and then.
Not only for the aesthetic benefits but also to avoid the risk of dry plant tissues starting to rot and attract fungi.
We may save lots of money by keeping our plants clean and hygienic.
How Do I Prune Anthurium?
Usually, Anthurium is not pruned in the true sense of the word, but we remove all the stems and dry leaves at the base, where they join the stem.
To do this, you must use sharp scissors sterilized with bleach, alcohol, or a flame.
This cleaning of dried parts aims to prevent the risk of them rotting or attracting fungi and bacteria.
Depending on your taste, the old leaves (usually the lower ones) can also be pruned before they dry, when they start to yellow.
I prefer to wait for them to dry; even if it is a little unsightly, the plant can use the last nutritional elements contained in the fault.
Propagation
Propagating Anthurium can be an excellent method to reproduce a specimen we particularly appreciate or to give as a gift and share with friends.
In other cases, the aim is to rejuvenate an old plant with a large, bare stem that is unpleasant to the eye.
Regardless of the reason why you want to multiply the anthurium, there are essentially two methods that can be followed:
- By dividing the tufts
- With cutting (cutting the stem),
Let’s look at them in more detail.
How To Multiply The Anthurium By Dividing The Tufts
To multiply an anthurium by dividing the tufts, you must wait until the plant has produced new lateral shoots from the stem.
That is new vegetation that has all the structures necessary to grow. Leaves, stems, and roots.
Along the stem of the Anthurium, usually near the collar, numerous dormant buds can give life to these new vegetations.
They may be divided from the parent plant and placed separately after they have developed leaves and roots.
The procedure for dividing Anthurium tufts is straightforward and is carried out in the transplanting section.
After removing the plant from the pot and cleaning the roots from the lump of earth.
It is necessary to separate the mother plant’s roots from those of the new shoot as much as possible.
Subsequently, pull gently to separate the two Anthurium plants from each other and pot them separately.
The new seedling will be an identical copy of the mother plant. Since it already has autonomous roots.
It does not need a rooting period or special care and can be potted directly into a small pot with airy, well-draining soil.
Suppose you wish to know how to propagate Anthurium properly. In that case, I recommend you click here [link] to read more about propagating Anthurium. After clicking, you can return.
If you click on that link, you will not regret it because it has full details and documentation.
You don’t need anyone to do it for you, but if you don’t want to continue reading.
How To Reproduce Anthurium From Cuttings (Cutting The Stem)
Since Anthurium andraeanum cannot branch, propagation by cuttings consists of cutting the stem into two or more parts and rooting them separately.
While the apical portion will grow in all respects like an average Anthurium plant, the intermediate sections (without the apex) will begin to produce a new shoot from one of the nodes.
Here’s how to reproduce anthurium by cutting:
- Clean the stems of the leaves you do not intend to keep. To increase the probability of success, keep at least one leaf for each portion of the stem you plan to keep. This will help the plant photosynthesize and reduce the time it takes to produce new roots and leaves.
- Cut the stem horizontally into several parts: For the cuttings to grow, each section must have at least one node from which the new plant can grow.
- Plant the cuttings vertically. Maintaining the direction in which they initially grew, insert a portion of the stem into the soil or water, exposing at least one node.
The mother plant, however, can be kept in its current pot as it can no longer grow in height.
It will begin to produce one or more new shoots from the dormant nodes at the stem’s base.
Diseases And Parasites
Many diseases and parasites that affect houseplants, in general, can harm Anthurium andraeanum, causing harm to its leaves and roots and jeopardizing its general health.
The best defense against these evils is prevention, which begins with putting the recently acquired plants we wish to add to our collection under quarantine.
It is not uncommon for plants recently purchased in the nursery or at the supermarket to have infestations or fungal diseases.
Spores are ready to spread when they enter the house’s walls or find favorable conditions.
Other prevention techniques consist of keeping the plants clean of decaying plant matter.
We ensure air circulation, avoid water stagnation, and spray on the leaves using natural products.
Let’s now look specifically at the most common Anthurium parasites and diseases.
What Are Anthurium Diseases?
Anthurium can suffer from various fungal or bacterial diseases, which, in addition to causing the following:
Visible damage to leaves, stems, or roots can seriously compromise the plant’s health and lead to its death.
These infections tend to increase in humid environments where the air is still or there is water stagnation on the leaves or soil.
While fungal diseases spread rapidly in cold environments, bacterial diseases prefer higher temperatures.
Bacteria and fungi must be taken seriously because they can spread quickly and infect other plants within a few days.
For further information, I refer you to the article Anthurium leaf diseases.
Also, click here read why Anthurium has yellow leaves and what to do.
What Parasites Attack Anthurium?
Among the parasites that can infest Anthurium, the most common are:
- Aphids
- Cochineal
- thrips
- Red spider mites (mites)
- Whitefly
These phytophagous insects feed on the plant’s sap, stinging the leaf to suck the cytoplasm inside the cells.
In addition to causing aesthetic damage, they reduce the anthurium’s ability to photosynthesize and severely weaken its immune system.
Furthermore, the bites inflicted by these parasites can introduce bacteria and viruses into the plant’s tissues.
While an early-stage infestation can be treated with oily products such as neem or white mineral oil, in the case of widespread problems, each parasite must be treated with a specific product.
| Prevention | Specific care | |
| Aphids | neem oil / white mineral oil | Closer |
| Cochineal | white mineral oil or potassium soft soap | Closer |
| Thrips | neem oil / white mineral oil | Spinosad or Pyrethrum |
| Mites or red spiders | neem oil / white mineral oil | Acaricide |
| Whitefly | neem oil / white mineral oil | Closer |
Conclusion
Overall, Anthurium andraeanum is an easy-to-care-for plant that adapts very well to apartment life and can give us great satisfaction with minimal effort.
If we have a bright window and manage to keep the humidity high enough, it will take very little time to see it grow and become more and more beautiful.
The “active” care that Anthurium requires is minimal.
- Correct watering
- Regular fertilization during spring and summer (perhaps with a gradual release fertilizer)
- Keep the room ventilated.
- Dry leaves are occasionally cleaned.
- Repotting occurs every two or three years when the plant has outgrown its pot.
- And that’s it.
Well-written like this may seem more straightforward than it is. But in reality, it all boils down to these few points.
The fact is that these points are macro-topics that are not obvious to everyone.
Still, if you apply the information in this guide on growing Anthurium, the result will be guaranteed.
